Tuesday, January 28, 2014

Travel :: A Day in Paris



Oh Paris, how you captured my heart with your grand promenades, stunning museums, effortless elegance, winding alleyways, gorgeous rooftops, and delicious food.  I am very fortunate to have spent nearly a month in Paris {but I will be the first to tell you, it was not nearly enough}, and have become the resident expert of all things Parisian to my friends and family.  I feel like the best decision I made during my three trips to Paris has been to not try to cram it all in.  There are nearly an infinite number of sights, shops, and restaurants, and if you are like most people and only have a fixed amount of time I personally believe just going from one tourist sight to another will leave you feeling tired, irritable, and {like many people I have spoken with} underwhelmed.  I have met many travelers who said they were very disappointed with their trip to Paris and believed that it did not live up to the hype.  I can definitely see how this is possible, for to truly enjoy Paris you must wander down the less beaten path {or in this case, alleyway} and explore what the city truly has to offer.  So inspired by this week's Parisian theme, I have decided to create an itinerary for my perfect day in the City of Light {knowing well that one day isn't nearly enough}.  Enjoy!

8AM: Wake up in your cozy flat {I have rented apartments two out of my three trips in Paris and couldn't say enough good things} to the sun rising over the rooftops of Paris.  Get dressed, and head outside to your local boulangerie.  My favorite breakfast was a simple one of a pastry {one can never go wrong with Pain au Chocolat} and a Café Creme.  Two of my absolute favorite boulangeries are Du Pain et des Idées and the lesser-known but equally amazing Boulangerie des Deux Ponts {do yourself a favor and grab an eclair with raspberries for later...it will change your life}.  If you can't decide which pastry looks most enticing, go ahead and grab two.  I won't judge :)

9AM: After breakfast take a stroll along the Seine {or hop on the metro, depending on where you are} until you reach the Musée d'Orsay.  Although I am all for going off the beaten path, in my opinion this museum is just too good to miss.  It is truly one of my happy places and I often find myself daydreaming about wandering from room to room, admiring the unparalleled collection of Impressionist Art {my favorite}.  Not only does the museum house some of the world's most important works, but the building itself, housed in a restored train station, is worth the price of admission by itself.  You could spend all day here so choose the galleries wisely, I want to make sure you have time to see lots more of Paris.

11AM: Now that you have gotten your share of art & culture it's time for my favorite activity in Paris...getting lost.  There are so many beautiful and unique neighborhoods that make for a perfect stroll, but one of my absolute favorites is Le Marais.  This quaint and chic area is filled with winding medieval streets, tiny courtyards, amazing boutiques {my favorite being Claudie Pierlot}, and the adorable little neighborhood of Saint-Paul.  Stroll into shops and get to know the owners.  Even if you don't know much French, the simple "Bonjour Monsieur/Madame, parlez vous Anglais?" will make a world of difference for the way you are treated.  I remember meeting a man who only sold antique keys, some over 600 years old.  He spent thirty minutes showing me his treasures, not because he was trying to sell them to me {most were far out of my budget}, but because he took such great pride in his work.  Purposely take the wrong turn down a tiny alleyway, you never know what you will find. Make sure to visit the beautiful Place de Vosges for a quiet respite in the middle of the city.  

1:30PM: By this time you will have done quite a bit of walking and worked up a good appetite.  Resist the temptation to stop for a sit-down meal {you will have time to do that later} and instead head to the closest fromagerie to pick-up some cheese for a picnic lunch.  Let the cheesemonger be your guide and be sure to grab a few different varieties {bonus points if it is something you have never seen before}.  Grab a baguette at a boulangerie, some fruit at a market, and, if you're feeling very Parisian, a bottle of red wine.  Head south towards the Seine, and enjoy your picnic lunch along the river.  

3:00PM: Explore the islands of Paris.  Ryan and I rented a flat on Île Saint-Louis which was incredibly quaint and romantic.  There aren't many "sights" on the tiny island, but virtually every square foot is beautiful.  If you're wanting a sweet treat, stop by the famous Berthillon for a scoop of ice cream {this was across the street from our flat and I'm not kidding Ryan ate there at least once a day...love ya Ryan!}  Next, walk to the bigger island of Île de la Cité.  Head straight to the beautiful Marché aux Fleurs {flower market} which every Sunday turns into a Bird Market.  This makes for some great photos, but be careful...I was scolded by a shop owner who didn't like anyone photographing his flowers {who knew?!}  While Notre Dame is the most famous landmark on the island, I would personally skip it and instead visit the smaller but equally {if not more} stunning cathedral of Sainte-Chapelle.  This church also holds candlelight concerts - my mom and I saw an orchestra perform Vivaldi's "Four Seasons"...thinking about it still gives me the goosebumps.  Afterwards, if you're up for it, wander to the right bank to the Palais Royal to see Daniel Buren's whimsical outdoor installation of 252 black & white striped columns...so magical.

5:30PM: Assuming you are visiting during warmer months {where it stays light outside quite late}, go ahead and give your feet a rest at a café.  I love sitting outside with a glass of wine just watching the people go by.  Since I am a fan of 1920's literature I am personally partial towards the classic  cafés {Café de Flore being my favorite...the hot chocolate is delicious and you can't beat the fact that the booth you are sitting at may or may not have been frequented by Ernest Hemingway 90 years ago}.  Or, if you're looking for something a bit more upscale visit the beautiful colonial tea house of Mariage Frères {make sure to buy some loose tea to take home, it is amazing}.

7:30PM {Give or take depending on the time of year}: My favorite place to watch the sun set in Paris is from the Pont Alexandre III bridge.  Watch the sky turn pink and orange behind the Eiffel Tower, then as the sky goes dark see the Eiffel Tower light up the night {it still makes me teary-eyed thinking about it}.

8:30PM: There are an unbelievable amount of amazing restaurants in Paris, and choosing just one is nearly impossible.  However, I think I would visit one of my all-time favorites - Le Comptoir du Relais.  Recommended to me by a Parisian friend {and recently featured by Bon Appétit magazine}, this restaurant does not take reservations...but instead follows a democratic "first-come, first-served" mentality.  There is always a wait but trust me, it is worth it!  It is always packed with locals and a few in-the-know tourists {but from my experience, hardly any Americans which is always a bonus in my book}.The food is fresh, seasonal, and innovative without being pretentious.  I loved it so much that I went there twice.  Everything on the menu is spectacular, but my favorites were the Scallops from Normany {never have I ever tasted anything so fresh} and the seared tuna with root vegetables.  For dessert the Chocolate Pot de Creme and classic Apple Tart are a perfect way to finish the meal.

11:00PM: If you still are awake, simply wander the street until you find a bustling café and sit outside with a glass of wine and join in the revelry.  La vie en rose!



35 comments:

  1. these photos are so nice! i've never been but am dying to go. also, i am in love with that pink vespa. its the cutest.


    xo, Brikena
    www.jarofjoy.blogspot.com

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  2. Love how you have captured this wonderful city with your camera! I visited Paris this fall (Paris is so beautiful in fall) and love to go back to do your perfect tour! X

    http://fragilityofbeauty.com/

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  3. I love the itinerary. It is a perfect day! I'm drooling over that eclair right now!

    http://liveitinerantly.com/

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  4. gorgeous photos as usual! Paris pastries are almost too pretty to eat!..ALMOST! you look quite the parisienne in your photo!

    xxCarrie
    www.alittledose.com

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  5. Gorgeous photos. And I have never spent a lot of time in paris....Always passing through. But this makes me regret that! aahh. So much great architecture and food!

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  6. Wow. Wow. I feel like I'm there with you. Stunning images.

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  7. Paris is my place- I love it and every time I leave I can't wait to go back. Musee de Orsay is amazing and always has the best art I think in Paris. next time I go I really want to take a french cooking class and look for those hidden channel top secret consignment stores :)

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  8. Fantastic photos! I can't wait to go to Paris some day.

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  9. Gorgeous pictures! And what an enchanting itinerary! I would love to do exactly all that you mentioned in a heartbeat. Dreaming away of Paris........

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  10. Booking tickets as we speak! Four of the most wonderful days of my life were spent wandering the streets of Paris. The itinerary looks perfect!

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  11. sounds perfect. love your pants and the pastries look great

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  12. i used to live in france for 4 months and i miss it everyday! loved reliving it through your post :)


    <3
    www.flowercrownsociety.com

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  13. Seriously girl. You take the most amazing photos and totally make me want to get the heck outta dodge. Looks and sounds like HEAVEN

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  14. ooh i like this post! i want to go to paris! x

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  15. thank you so much julie! it's hard to take a bad photo somewhere as beautiful as paris :)

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  16. oh wow that sounds amazing allison!
    love meeting a fellow francophile :)

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  17. thank you hena! my pants were from AG a couple seasons ago, i wear them all the time.

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  18. i know...i seriously would love a pink vespa with a matching helmet {or mint green would be nice too!}

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  19. thank you eveline! totally agree with you, i was there in the fall of 2012 and it is truly stunning. i was also surprised to see how much longer the leaves stayed on the trees...even in the end of november the trees still weren't completely bare!

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  20. thank you so much alina! i am definitely envious you londoners have the eurostar, we are so landlocked here in the midwest. basically every weekend getaway {other than chicago} requires a plane flight!

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  21. awe thank you so much carrie!! that is about the biggest compliment you could give me :)

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  22. thank you so much erika! i would definitely recommend adding a few days to your itinerary next time you pass through paris, it is so magical :)

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  23. erika i think we are soulmates! last time i was in paris i took a cooking class where i learned to make croissants, pain au chocolat, and almond croissants...it was SO fun and SO delicious. plus, we got to take home all of our creations, so i'm pretty sure i ate croissants for the next 6 meals {and loved it}.

    i also found a few of the chanel & hermes consignment stores but sadly still could not afford {they were literally in mint condition and were as much if not more than in the department stores}. but they were still fun to browse through and see all the beautiful bags and suits :)

    PS - have you read this book? http://www.amazon.com/Paris-Inspiring-Citys-Creative-Heart/dp/1452113858 if not, i would highly recommend it! the author breaks up the city by arrondissement and forgoes the traditional tourist spots instead for the most creatively inspiring restaurants, galleries, parks, streets, etc. plus there is a huge appendix in the back with all of her favorite parisian haunts {she has fantastic taste} including quite a few chanel consignment stores :)

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  24. thank you so much akshara! i truly appreciate your comments :)

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  25. a lot of bloggers love paris and talk about it (i do too, though i have never been - sad face) but i love the way you talk about, in such real terms. when i do go i will be contacting you!! and these photos are stunning.

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  26. great pictures babe!

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  27. Ahh. This is just what I needed! It would have lifted my spirits if I'd been able to get out of bed and blog-surf earlier this week. I even had to miss my French class on Tuesday! Ceci n'etait pas une bonne semaine! Paris, as you know, is my heart. My fiancé and I got engaged there last year; it was my third trip to the city and it will never be enough. 300 trips, maybe. ;) I have four tins of tea from Mariage Frères in my kitchen; for only €11 a pop they're not terribly expensive, last forever, and are amaaaazing. Well, if you're a tea fanatic ;) Thank you for sharing these lovely photos! xo

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  28. i love that you got engaged in paris, that is basically my dream. my boyfriend and i talk about buying a little flat in paris when we retire and spending a few months there every year...unless of course we get to move their sooner :)

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  29. ps - sorry to hear you were so under the weather, i hope you're feeling better erin! drink some of that delicious Mariage Frères tea :)

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  30. Thanks for all the great tips! Perfect timing. I have been to Paris once, back in 2006, and am super excited to be going back there in (I can't believe it's so soon) less than 2 weeks! I will be meeting my boyfriend there and we basically only have a long weekend. Not sure how much I can squeeze in, but I'll be happy just to be there!

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