Travel :: A Day in Paris

Oh Paris, how you captured my heart with your grand promenades, stunning museums, effortless elegance, winding alleyways, gorgeous rooftops, and delicious food.  I am very fortunate to have spent nearly a month in Paris {but I will be the first to tell you, it was not nearly enough}, and have become the resident expert of all things Parisian to my friends and family.  I feel like the best decision I made during my three trips to Paris has been to not try to cram it all in.  There are nearly an infinite number of sights, shops, and restaurants, and if you are like most people and only have a fixed amount of time I personally believe just going from one tourist sight to another will leave you feeling tired, irritable, and {like many people I have spoken with} underwhelmed.  I have met many travelers who said they were very disappointed with their trip to Paris and believed that it did not live up to the hype.  I can definitely see how this is possible, for to truly enjoy Paris you must wander down the less beaten path {or in this case, alleyway} and explore what the city truly has to offer.  So inspired by this week's Parisian theme, I have decided to create an itinerary for my perfect day in the City of Light {knowing well that one day isn't nearly enough}.  Enjoy!

8AM: Wake up in your cozy flat {I have rented apartments two out of my three trips in Paris and couldn't say enough good things} to the sun rising over the rooftops of Paris.  Get dressed, and head outside to your local boulangerie.  My favorite breakfast was a simple one of a pastry {one can never go wrong with Pain au Chocolat} and a Café Creme.  Two of my absolute favorite boulangeries are Du Pain et des Idées and the lesser-known but equally amazing Boulangerie des Deux Ponts {do yourself a favor and grab an eclair with raspberries for later...it will change your life}.  If you can't decide which pastry looks most enticing, go ahead and grab two.  I won't judge :)

9AM: After breakfast take a stroll along the Seine {or hop on the metro, depending on where you are} until you reach the Musée d'Orsay.  Although I am all for going off the beaten path, in my opinion this museum is just too good to miss.  It is truly one of my happy places and I often find myself daydreaming about wandering from room to room, admiring the unparalleled collection of Impressionist Art {my favorite}.  Not only does the museum house some of the world's most important works, but the building itself, housed in a restored train station, is worth the price of admission by itself.  You could spend all day here so choose the galleries wisely, I want to make sure you have time to see lots more of Paris.

11AM: Now that you have gotten your share of art & culture it's time for my favorite activity in Paris...getting lost.  There are so many beautiful and unique neighborhoods that make for a perfect stroll, but one of my absolute favorites is Le Marais.  This quaint and chic area is filled with winding medieval streets, tiny courtyards, amazing boutiques {my favorite being Claudie Pierlot}, and the adorable little neighborhood of Saint-Paul.  Stroll into shops and get to know the owners.  Even if you don't know much French, the simple "Bonjour Monsieur/Madame, parlez vous Anglais?" will make a world of difference for the way you are treated.  I remember meeting a man who only sold antique keys, some over 600 years old.  He spent thirty minutes showing me his treasures, not because he was trying to sell them to me {most were far out of my budget}, but because he took such great pride in his work.  Purposely take the wrong turn down a tiny alleyway, you never know what you will find. Make sure to visit the beautiful Place de Vosges for a quiet respite in the middle of the city.  

1:30PM: By this time you will have done quite a bit of walking and worked up a good appetite.  Resist the temptation to stop for a sit-down meal {you will have time to do that later} and instead head to the closest fromagerie to pick-up some cheese for a picnic lunch.  Let the cheesemonger be your guide and be sure to grab a few different varieties {bonus points if it is something you have never seen before}.  Grab a baguette at a boulangerie, some fruit at a market, and, if you're feeling very Parisian, a bottle of red wine.  Head south towards the Seine, and enjoy your picnic lunch along the river.  

3:00PM: Explore the islands of Paris.  Ryan and I rented a flat on Île Saint-Louis which was incredibly quaint and romantic.  There aren't many "sights" on the tiny island, but virtually every square foot is beautiful.  If you're wanting a sweet treat, stop by the famous Berthillon for a scoop of ice cream {this was across the street from our flat and I'm not kidding Ryan ate there at least once a day...love ya Ryan!}  Next, walk to the bigger island of Île de la Cité.  Head straight to the beautiful Marché aux Fleurs {flower market} which every Sunday turns into a Bird Market.  This makes for some great photos, but be careful...I was scolded by a shop owner who didn't like anyone photographing his flowers {who knew?!}  While Notre Dame is the most famous landmark on the island, I would personally skip it and instead visit the smaller but equally {if not more} stunning cathedral of Sainte-Chapelle.  This church also holds candlelight concerts - my mom and I saw an orchestra perform Vivaldi's "Four Seasons"...thinking about it still gives me the goosebumps.  Afterwards, if you're up for it, wander to the right bank to the Palais Royal to see Daniel Buren's whimsical outdoor installation of 252 black & white striped columns...so magical.

5:30PM: Assuming you are visiting during warmer months {where it stays light outside quite late}, go ahead and give your feet a rest at a café.  I love sitting outside with a glass of wine just watching the people go by.  Since I am a fan of 1920's literature I am personally partial towards the classic  cafés {Café de Flore being my favorite...the hot chocolate is delicious and you can't beat the fact that the booth you are sitting at may or may not have been frequented by Ernest Hemingway 90 years ago}.  Or, if you're looking for something a bit more upscale visit the beautiful colonial tea house of Mariage Frères {make sure to buy some loose tea to take home, it is amazing}.

7:30PM {Give or take depending on the time of year}: My favorite place to watch the sun set in Paris is from the Pont Alexandre III bridge.  Watch the sky turn pink and orange behind the Eiffel Tower, then as the sky goes dark see the Eiffel Tower light up the night {it still makes me teary-eyed thinking about it}.

8:30PM: There are an unbelievable amount of amazing restaurants in Paris, and choosing just one is nearly impossible.  However, I think I would visit one of my all-time favorites - Le Comptoir du Relais.  Recommended to me by a Parisian friend {and recently featured by Bon Appétit magazine}, this restaurant does not take reservations...but instead follows a democratic "first-come, first-served" mentality.  There is always a wait but trust me, it is worth it!  It is always packed with locals and a few in-the-know tourists {but from my experience, hardly any Americans which is always a bonus in my book}.The food is fresh, seasonal, and innovative without being pretentious.  I loved it so much that I went there twice.  Everything on the menu is spectacular, but my favorites were the Scallops from Normany {never have I ever tasted anything so fresh} and the seared tuna with root vegetables.  For dessert the Chocolate Pot de Creme and classic Apple Tart are a perfect way to finish the meal.

11:00PM: If you still are awake, simply wander the street until you find a bustling café and sit outside with a glass of wine and join in the revelry.  La vie en rose!

For more of my Parisian adventures: The Doors of Paris // Place des Vosges // Opulent Paris // A Cooking Class // Montmartre // Curiosities // The Rooftops of Paris // A Moveable Feast // My Mom in Paris